Sunday, August 19, 2012

Thoughts from Lima.

Oh I'm going out of order but whatever.

There's a restaurant called "beer chicken." I wonder what they serve.

Lima is freaking huge. Huuuuuuuuge. We are dealing with this by taking cabs everywhere because it's easier than trying to navigate the totally incomprehensible bus system (one needs to only trust the markings on the front of the bus, NEVER THE SIDE). Related: the cab drivers here are enormously chatty, it's hilarious. Like running conversation from pickup to drop off.

Lima is totally overcast three months a year, one of which is august. By extension, we're both a bit...sleepy, mostly because this is totally nap weather. Adding to this problem was our lunch of causas, a mashed-potato-based dish that is a Peruvian specialty. FOOD COMA NOM. The one challenge with finding the restaurant in question is that the name has been changed since Lonely Planet came through, so now the staff is constantly on guard for confused-looking tourists. This worked to our advantage.

We spent the afternoon at the Museo Larco, which displays artifacts mostly from pre-columbian Peruvian societies. There are a lot of ceramics involved. My two favorite parts were first, the museum store rooms, where they have all the stuff not officially on display on big shelves behind glass, organized by type, so big shelves all of pots with two monkeys on top, several of lomos birds all making the same sort of alarmed face, one of ceramics of guys playing the panpipes, etc. Second, the erotic gallery, since apparently the pre-colombians made A LOT of EXTREMELY SEXUALLY EXPLICIT pottery, some of which the Museo Larco has on tasteful display. Well, as tasteful as the circumstances allow.

I mostly kept it together. Except for the particularly comical mistranslations of the verb "to masturbate."

Tonight, we plan to go to a water and light show in central Lima and the return to miraflores in a quest for ceviche. Until then, nappy time...

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